melting ice

first steps

Rosy is testing her new blog....

groundbreaking, ice melting news, 4th November 2009

(pic by jaihn)

ticking clock...

Time has just flown by since I first resolved to go to Antarctica back in May.  It's a journey I always knew I was going to do, and it became quickly apparent that this was the year to do it, following a conversation with Irma in Manchester in which she assured me there certainly was time enough to plan the trip and not have to leave it yet another year.  All I needed was a nudge, as it turns out.

I've had the full range of reactions since I first revealed my intentions to people.  For those who have known me for years, there's an immediate recognition and understanding, but for those who haven't, it's not necessarily so easy to understand.  The fact is, I'm not off on a jolly just to try something different, nor do I have some sort of penchant for cold climates.  It's a very personal journey to breathe the air my Dad breathed all those wonderful years he spent working in Antarctica.

Dad was a polar microbiologist who worked for the British Antarctic Survey for 25 years until one Sunday evening whilst out running on a country road in Cambridge, he was knocked down by a car.  I was 16 when it happened.  His work involved developing new ideas concerning the origins of life by studying microbes in cold deserts.  He was an inspirational man, passionate about his work, and enjoyed sharing his love of the Antarctic to anyone and everyone.

I grew up with stories and artefacts from Antarctica, including bedtime stories featuring different Antarctic animals ("Mac" the macaroni penguin was my favourite), a whale-bone seat just the perfect size for me when I was little, and slide shows that Dad would put on for us with endless pictures and stories.  The British research bases are dotted around the Antarctic peninsula beyond the Falkland Islands.  As a result, Dad travelled extensively around South America since it was on the way (once with Mum too), and brought back coins, music and fabrics from different countries around South America.  When I was booking my trip, I realised how important it was to include those countries I remember him always talking about too.

The Journey

On 8th December, I will be flying out from Heathrow to Buenos Aires, crossing over to Montevideo in Uruguay, travelling down through Argentina to get to Ushuaia (southern most tip of South America) by mid-January.  On 19th January, I will be embarking on an ex-research Russian vessel called the Vavilov for a 20-day tour of the Antarctic Peninsula, the Falkland Islands and South Georgia, which will take me as close as a tourist visitor can get to the British bases where Dad used to work.  After that, I'll be travelling up through Chile all the way to Bolivia and finally Peru, where I'll fly back from Lima on 5th May 2010.

My mind has been buzzing so much with preparations that I barely made headway with my big pile of books, but they sat there patiently reminding me to focus.  The doorstop South American Handbook is probably too heavy to take, but has been great to flick through.  10 Keys to Success, written by John Bird, founder of the Big Issue and one of my greatest heroes, who I shared dinner with at Susan's on my second day ever in norwich (amazing).  L'immoraliste because it reminds me of university and my love of French and foreign languages.  Danny Wallace also wrote Yes Man, a book I couldn't read in public without laughing inappropriately, which I passed on.  A Woman Alone, inspiring opening few pages which I'll take with me, thanks to Hannah Rose.  Tracey Emin's revealing view of the world and her experiences, a short enough book for me to actually read from cover to cover.  Four Corners from Lyn Gardenchild, special Freecycle friend and supporter.  Selection of Rough Guides and Lonely Planets - got a pretty fine for holding on to these so long, didn't want to let them go.  In Patagonia, recommended by several people, too long to read before I go.  Michel Thomas trying to teach me Spanish, but I've run out of time.  Oops.

where I am going to be

map one

Make yours @ BigHugeLabs.com

map two

Make yours @ BigHugeLabs.com

service of remembrance

Last week, I went to a special service at St Johns Catholic Cathedral here in Norwich which was held in memory of those who have died in road traffic accidents.  I'd never even thought about going to these kinds of services over the years, but this year it seemed particularly fitting to remember my Dad in the context of how he left the world.

Dad always used to say to me, "Rosy, don't be afraid to go to those places you've always wanted to go, or do those things you always wanted to do.  Statistically speaking, the most dangerous thing you can do is cross the road".  I can almost hear him say "See? I told you so".

During the service, we sang hymns that I remember he liked and two that Mum chose for his funeral.  When I went up to lay the oak leaf with Dad's name on it with everyone else, I turned to walk away and the choir started to sing Faure's Pie Jesu.  Up until that moment, I'd so successfully avoided that piece since my sister and I sang it at the start of Dad's funeral, and all the memories start flooding back when I hear it.  It wasn't marked in the programme so I was caught completely offguard.

At first, I felt genuinely angry that Chris the director of music had chosen that piece and not put it in the order of service... a complete over-reaction.  I couldn't see why I should have to sit through the whole piece - it was like torture.  But then I realised that I was meant to hear it, without the opportunity to run away.  My journey to South America and Antarctica is going to inevitably feature these moments of sadness and flooding memories, but isn't this the reason I'm going there?  For the first time in 8 years, I have the space and the desire to face this head-on.

a word of thanks

Well, I´ve arrived safely in Buenos Aires!!  It was a long but hassle-free journey, at the end of which I was flagged down by my pre-arranged taxi and driven straight to Avenue T.de Alvear where I received the most beautiful welcome from Maggie´s lovely mum.  Maggie, who I haven´t seen since we sang together in a small choir in Paris about 5 years ago, will be back on 15th December, so I have a week to explore B.A and hopefully catch up with some other friends here and across the way in Uruguay.

Throughout the long journey, I took stock of all the people who have helped me create and push forward with this journey.  I hope to include everybody in this, and will add to it if/when I realise I've missed people out.  I'm overwhelmed by all the support and encouragement of those around me, and I feel so lucky to have you all in my life.

Jaihn for helping me create this blog and for offering to help maintain it over the next 5 months, Irma - for being the first person to tell me to make this trip I'd always wanted to do THIS year, not the next or the next...Lyn for suggesting that my story might go beyond family and friends and for providing a home to my books while I´m away, Martin and David for putting out the first feelers for its potential for radio, Maria for enthusing about the story, Julian for taking time to meet with me and give me the tools for documenting my journey, and his daughter Hannah for giving me tips on travelling in S America even though she´s never met me, Dad´s old colleagues at the British Antarctic Survey including Bill, Cynan, Ron and Jo for being there for me to ask questions either over the phone or in person, going through the archives in Cambridge and in Bill´s case, allowing me time to carry out a long interview with all the questions I was so keen to have answered, everyone at BBC Radio Norfolk who made my time there so happy and gave me a fantastic experience of the world of radio, especially the Treasure Quest team who I miss dearly, Becky and Tim for being fabulous comedy value and for sorting out a lovely send-off, Future Radio especially Tom and Stash for the opportunity to develop my skills in location reporting and live presenting, everyone at St Pauls in Cambridge for freely offering guidance and support in whatever I do, Louise for backing me right from the start and offering to store my belongings in her loft (single-handedly lugging them up there!), staff at Voluntary Norfolk who took particular interest in my journey and supported me through my time there and in the lead-up to my departure (you know who you are, special people), Steve at Rohan in Bristol for giving me honest advice and pointing me in the right direction, Paul and Henry at Snow and Rock in Bristol for their help in kitting me out with Antarctica essentials, enthusiasm for my trip and providing my first climbing experience at the Bristol climbing centre, old Milton Road primary school friends including Liz for her continued excitement and understanding of my trip and for giving me lovely contacts in Argentina, Sophie for her kind encouragers and for the bond we´ve happily re-established, and Nick for his Portico Quartet music which I will enjoy for many months to come and the reminisce we had in Norwich when they came for their gig, Sarah and John for hosting me for the first wonderful 9 months of my time in Norwich and sending me on my way so kindly at the end, Hannah Rose and Alex for that amazing last evening where we talked through where to go in S America and you gave me the traveller´s amulet, Kim and Joe for hosting me so generously the night before my flight, Pauline my fabulous French flatmate from my year abroad in Paris who will be joining me for the final 2 weeks of my trip in Peru, Irma Imogen and Nina (aka "the girls") for being there at 16 when Dad died, helping me cope with the biggest shock of my life and for continuing to be great supporters and close friends, Stash for being the most supportive caring man I have ever had the pleasure to be mine, Mum, Chris and Cherry for their constant overwhelming love and support in both words and actions, for which I am truly grateful. 

And finally to my Dad, who has provided me with the skills, courage and desire to make this journey, both throughout my childhood and beyond the grave.  Every step along the way, I know he is with me and proud of me.

first few days in buenos aires

I'm so happy to be here.  It was a bit of a shock coming from cold blustery Cambridge to 25 degrees here - everything in my bag is ready for Antarctic climes and mountain peaks.  I remember trying to choose between two skirts and having turned my rucksack inside out I can confirm I brought neither.  Quick stop at some cheapy shops has sorted me out with tops and some more summery clothes.  Even though I knew it was summer here, I couldn't quite imagine it before I got here.

Well, I've so far been treated with the kindest and warmest welcome you could ever hope for.  Gloria (my friend Maggie's mum) has a beautiful home and heart.  She's a really inspiring lady, always positive and open about everything.  She's a real breath of fresh air and I'm so happy to have met her and spent time getting to know her.  I've done quite a bit of walking in some of the main areas here, along the Avenida Santa Fe / Avenida del Libertador / 9. de Julio which is just round the corner from Maggie's mum's apartment so it's all very convenient.  It's been amazing to be surrounded by Spanish for the first time since everything I learnt from the very thorough Mrs Boldy at sixth form is all coming back to me now.  I love Spanish and have been waiting for this opportunity to really learn to speak it well. My brain works a bit slowly when I'm trying to get my sentences out (my friends here describe it as a little mouse running slowly on a treadmill in my mind, if you care for metaphor), but it should speed up with time.

Milagros is one of the girls living just opposite and she's been really lovely taking me round the city and also to her university so I can see what it's like.  She's really good at English so if I ever need to ask for help on how to say certain things, she's brilliant at it.  We had an amazing evening last night, with Miri's sister Lucila and Gloria where we drove and walked around Palermo Hollywood which is the area with all the designer shops and swanky bars.  Everything's so beautifully designed and colourful - instead of being big imposing stores, the shop buildings are actually really old and maximum 2 storeys high so it looks really pretty rather than massive and exclusive.  We also saw people all on stilts and painted faces and it took a little while to work out what they were doing, but apparently it was a mini campaign to get people to wear their seatbelts in their cars.  Very random but entertaining.  After yummy creme brulee and cake with massive fruit shakes, we got back and slept very very well.  They were all very generous with their patience, speaking slowly for me to understand and waiting for me to complete my broken Spanish sentences.

I also met with one of Liz's friends Ana Clara for cake as well (I do love my cake, especially the cakes here since they are truly decadent and even I can't manage a whole portion) at Maru Botana which is a celebrity chef well-known for her cakes and has her own TV show.  I warn you now, I'm likely to be much "friendlier" when I get back to the UK if I carry on like this!

My general impression of Buenos Aires is that it reminds me of a mixture of places I've already been:  the intricate facades of buildings with their ornate balconies like in Paris, red telephone boxes and post boxes like in England, square grid road formation like in New York and the general feel is like Madrid or Barcelona.  What a terrible thing to say that it's like other places, it also of course has its distinct identity.  I guess it's just human nature to see places through the filter of previous experiences.

Maggie is coming back tomorrow (Sunday) and I'm so excited to see her since we haven't seen each other since that year in Paris 5 years ago when we sang in a small choir together.  She works during the week so I'm going to go to Colonia in Uruguay on Monday to meet my friend from Norwich, Sam, and then on to Montevideo with him to see where he's been all this time.  Back to Buenos Aires on Thursday/Friday to spend more time with Maggie and her friends.  Hopefully the week after I'll go to las Cataratas del Iguaçu (Iguassu Falls) - apparently they are unmissable.  Christmas will be here at Gloria's with about 15 of us which should be really good fun - a range of friends and family.  And then I'll take the bus to Salta and spend New Year with the rest of their family and come back to Buenos Aires on the 4th January.  Then hopefully bus to Bariloche and maybe flight down further south (it sounds like it would take forever to do the whole lot by bus), and then the Moreno glacier and down to Ushuaia in time for my pre-booked tour to Antarctica on 19th January.  That's the vague plan, anyway.

colonia y montevideo, uruguay

When I was little, Dad used to encourage us to play a game where we laid out a huge (well, it seemed huge at the time!) world map on the floor and we took turns to pick a coin from his big jar of coins from around the world and place it on the correct country.  Lots of these coins were from the countries he visited when travelling round South America.  I remember one coin in particular that corresponded with a country that I always thought sounded quite exotic, since it seemed quite small and tucked away and has a lovely name: Uruguay.

It seemed completely right to make it part of my trip even if it was only a short stop.  Fortunately, my friend Sam who I met last year in Norwich has been in Uruguay for a fair few months, and whilst it seemed at one point as though he wouldn't be there at the same time as me, somehow it all worked out perfectly.  Sam left Norwich to go on a big trip round South America this time last year, and I remember at the time being so keen to follow suit, but a great job opportunity came up so it wasn't the right time.

I took the boat from Buenos Aires to a beautiful little town called Colonia - a place with a very colourful history, having changed hands between Spain and Portugal and other countries besides, more times than any other place in the world (if I've got that wrong, there's always Google!).  On the boat, I got chatting to a lovely Peruvian girl called Miria who looked about 18 but it was later revealed that she was 30 with a 6-year old daughter, oops!  I really appreciated the time she took to make conversation with me, since most others would´ve given up, the length of time it took for me to explain what I wanted to say!  It felt really strange telling her what I was doing, because I know that she wanted to go to Spain but would never be able to go for Visa and financial reasons.  This happens the world over, I know, but it really brought home to me yet again how lucky I am to be doing this trip.  I wish it were possible for everyone, but I know the world just doesn't work like that.

Sam met me at the boat terminal and we enjoyed a day of strolling down the beautiful maple-tree (we think) -lined streets, and the smaller cobbled paths with the famous brightly coloured houses.  There are also VW Beetles parked everywhere, in different states of repair, most rusting gently around the edges, but each with such character.  Check out my picture of one of them which has a tree growing inside it!  It's one of those "touristy for a reason" kinds of places, but actually it was quite quiet so it was pleasant and calm.  Definitely more mosquitoes than tourists!  Repellent would've been a plus.  I managed to get some on by the time it was getting dark, but apparently even repellent doesn't repel these hardy beasts.  I found myself being bitten through my thick jeans as I tried to enjoy the sunset.  Persistent things!

Next day: Montevideo, capital of Uruguay.  It's a city I can remember Dad speaking fondly of, and I can see why.  It has a similar European feel to Buenos Aires, but it's a whole lot smaller, which makes it myuch more manageable and cosy-feeling.  Over the past few months, Sam has been helping a group of Uruguayans he met to do up a plain old building and transform it into a funky hostel with big wall artwork and a shoestring hand-made feel to it which brings a whole lot of character with it!  The people who run it are super arty and creative, and anything goes!  In fact, Montevideo in general feels very bohemian and laid-back.  The old city has a beautiful cathedral and lots of plazas and small art galleries to dip in and out of.  One in particular was a photography exhibition in which a range of photographic journalists/documentists showed the story they wanted to tell of different travesties around the Ibero-American world.  Pretty depressing, but so intersesting, I went 2 days in a row, the second time with Kieran from the hostel who helped fill in my Spanish vocab gaps.

Near sunset, Sam Kieran and I headed along the Rambla which leads all the way along the coast, and is deceptively long!  We got to the best spot just in time to see the last glows of orange disappear beneath the sea.  The other two strode ahead a bit and I found myself lost in my thoughts and the warm coastal breeze.  Just at that moment, I experienced a strong feeling of my Dad holding my hand.  It felt so real, and it was just amazing.  I had a minute or so where I felt like Dad was walking alongside me, not saying anything, but just accompanying me.  Feel free to say I'm strange, but it was that kind of moment that makes me know that I'm going along the right track.

We did a lot of walking around and taking it all in, and my feet ache, but it's all worth it.  The final evening, one of the French guys Pierrick asked if we'd be interested in going to see a photography and music gig going on just down the road along the Rambla.  Great local group playing and people pasting large photos on the wall - they all looked like part of a wider political message but I'm not quite sure what it was!  And finally after dinner around midnight we headed out to the Couchsurfing.com night which happens just around the corner from the hostel every Thursday.  It was really buzzing and Sam knew lots of the people there so it was fun to chat to everyone. 

We finally picked a bar to go into and dance, and had a great time.  It turned into a big long set of reggaeton music which is real carnival music.  Bizarrely, I recognised one tune from an old cassette we used to always have playing on long car journeys when I was a kid, one which I presume Dad picked up in Bolivia since it's folklore Bolivian music with singing and panpipes, except the tune was remixed into a dance track which was very unexpected!  I must find that CD along the way if possible, since I can't seem to find it on the internet.

Got back at 4am and had to be up at 7am for my bus+boat back to Buenos Aires.  Great end to a great week.

breathing the air he breathed

Along with my waterproofs, sun cream, walking boots and passport, I brought a few of my Dad's essential items, including his heavy-duty sunspecs (as he used to call them), his swiss-army knife (he never went anywhere without it), and for my own benefit Mum allowed me to take his Polar Medal which he was awarded in 1980 in recognition of his contribution to Antarctic research.  I also have 2 postcards he wrote to me over the years and and a few obituaries - this one is from the Independent, and shows him in his kit which I'm sure is very different from what the scientists use these days, not quite so hi-tech, but did the job anyway.  When the obituaries came out in a number of national papers, I remember feeling really guilty that I hadn't truly appreciated the work that he did.  He used to come home and talk about his latest progress at work and most of it went completely over my head.  I guess I was only young, and now I'm starting to understand and appreciate it all more.

I have been kindly lent a nagra recorder with which to record sounds and interviews with people on the ship, and potentially me talking about my experience when I'm actually there.  One of Dad's closest colleagues, Bill, agreed to meet with me at the British Antarctic Survey a week or two before I left to talk about the work Dad did and what he was like as a person.  For years I've worried that the memories are fading and I'll never be able to ask the questions I wanted to ask to my Dad, and meeting with Bill dispelled all of this.  It was the first time I've had an excuse to find out more about what he did and gather stories and memories from people who were closest to him.  As I was leaving, I asked him if he would be able to let me know if there were any particular places he remembered going with Dad when they spent time in Buenos Aires, and he said he and Dad used to enjoy strolling down La Florida.

After the boat back from Colonia, I decided to walk home, even though it's a pretty long way.  I decided to follow my nose home since I was confident I knew the way.  I wandered for a bit and came across the sign for Avenida Marcelo T. de Alvear which was perfect because all I needed to do was walk up it a fair bit and I'd be home.  Then I looked at the road it crossed with: La Florida!  I had been meaning to make time to walk along it, and there I was.  Despite the heat and my tired feet, I was compelled to walk the length of it.  It was fun to think how it must've been all those years ago that Dad and Bill had been there.  I would imagine the addition of a number of MacDonalds and Burger Kings was a pretty recent one.  I walked and walked and walked until I realised I probably shouldn't walk any longer since it was leading me pretty far in the wrong direction for home.

I'm really lucky to have two of Dad's travel reports written in 1977 and 1980 where he goes through all the places he went and how much things cost etc, for anyone who might want to travel round South America too.  It's weird to feel like he's talking to me from that many years ago.  I know he would be absolutely delighted that I'm here and that everyone has been so kind to me and welcomed me into their homes.  I can definitely see why he loved it here so much, I can't wait to discover more.  This is only the beginning!

rumble in the jungle

Wow, what an exciting few days I've just had.  Far from the cosmopolitan city feel of Buenos Aires, I found myself in a sauna heat surrounded by large-leafed banana trees, vegetation every shade of green and red earthy road tracks.  An hour or so away by plane (posh-packer's Christmas present to myself), and I was in another world, the magical world of Iguazú.

Arriving there, I immediately felt happy and couldn't wipe the smile off my face.  Kieran, who I'd met in the hostel in Montevideo, had recommended a hostel called Timbó Posada on Avenida Misiones and I equally pass on 100% recommendation for that place.  Right in the centre of town, super friendly and brightly coloured.  Javier who runs the place is a fascinating guy who's heavily involved in conservation projects in the area.

 I was just settling in by the pool when I heard an "Hola, que tal?" from behind a big banana tree in the garden.  There's always a split-second moment when you either say "Bien, y vos?" and it stops there, or it turns into a conversation.  Luckily this time it was the latter.  Antoine is from France and has been learning Spanish in Buenos Aires for the past few months, and his parents have come over to spend Christmas with him.  They were heading over to the Jardín de los Picaflores (Garden of Hummingbirds) which was just a small little place run by one sweet lady full of hummingbirds flitting about like mad things from one sweet water jar to another.  We sat there for ages admiring these beautiful creatures.  Dinnertime took us to a little eatery which turned into a group of French people - Michel and Michael who had just come from Rio, plus a Swiss girl Andrea.  Up until that point, I hadn't had any idea of who I was going to go with to the Falls the next day, and I found myself arranging to meet them at their hostel the next day.

Las Cataratas de Iguazú absolutely blew me away.  The first place we headed to was the Gargantua del Diablo (Devil's Mouth) where you're right on top of the highest point of the Falls.  Unfortunately it was so bright with the sun and the white of the crashing water that I could barely see and it felt a bit like a re-run of Niagara Falls.  But as the day unfolded Michel, Michael and I followed all the path circuits which lent the most amazing variety of views on the Falls and the surrounding area.  Andrea (our chief butterfly attractor - she had them landing on her constantly) had to go early because she felt tired and not too well.  The further M&M and I got, the more in awe we became of this natural beauty.  The heat and humidity was pretty intense at times but every time we turned a corner and saw a new sight, we just forgot any discomfort.  There's one boardwalk which leads you so close to the waterfalls that you get properly soaked in the spray.  We kept going until it started to get dark and the mosquitos came out to play, without having even a bite to eat.  For those of you who know me well, you'll realise how much I must have loved this place.  Normally, I'd be ready to bite my own arm off!  I heard that the whole area has changed a fair bit over the years, certainly since Dad would have been there.  Apparently it was a lot more dangerous to walk around since there weren't the barriers and well-consructed boardwalks and bridges that are there today.

After a necessary shower back at the hostel, I met a crazy Spanish guy (seriously loco en el coco) called Samuel who was really great fun, and as evening set in, a whole group of us installed ourselves in the bar and ordered caipirnha after caipirinha.  Buenissima!  At about 2am we decided to go into town and found ourselves in Club Latina (classy!) dancing away to reggaeton.  It was pretty difficult to get out of bed only 2 hours after having got into it.  I was really hoping to go with Antoine and his parents to Sendero Macuco before my flight back home later on in the afternoon because it sounded really fantastic - a few kilometres of walking, leading to a waterfall where you can swim in the water below.  I didn't go in the end because I didn't fancy the risk of not making my flight home.  Hopefully I'll get the chance to do something similar at a later point.

Instead, I was invited to lunch at a nice restaurant where I tried cow's tongue and matambre (some kind of strange boiled meat with a slimy layer of fat cover in a white Roquefort sauce which was apparently "muy bueno" but which I found distinctly difficult to stomach), finished by yummy panqueque dulce de leche (pancakes with thick caramel sauce - that stuff will surely be my downfall!)

I'll never regret the expensive flight there (only in comparison to the bus equivalent).  Such a blissful few days spent with wonderful people in a breath-taking place.  Thumbs up and big smiles all round :)

feliz navidad a todos

Merry Christmas everybody!  Christmas here started at 9pm on Christmas eve when Gloria and I went to her catholic church for the festive service.  Wherever I am, I always go to some sort of church celebration of Christmas, whether I understand the language or not.  In this case, it was pretty boomy and echo-y so not much chance but it was interesting to experience an Argentinian catholic Christmas service.

The one song I recognised was Silent Night but it was sung in Castellano so I could only hum along.  All the music was accompanied by romantic Argentinian style guitar.  So beautiful.  When it came to taking communion and ending the service, everyone seemed to have tears in their eyes which was at first strange but quite moving.  Gloria bought her usual lot of flowers from the sellers outside plus a Christmas bonus and we headed back home to find most of the dinner guests had arrived.

That afternoon, I had the opportunity to speak to Mum Cherry and Chris all together and was treated to a rendition of Once In Royal David's City via Skype.  Haha!  Fantastic stuff, really reminded me of home.

Here at Gloria's house, there were 16 of us in total around the dinner table and quite a few of the guests brought dishes and drinks to share.  It was a mixture of friends and family, some of whom I'd met before.  It was a nice mix of ages as well, so I had lots of different types of conversations.  There was so much food that was really attractive-looking and tasty, but I had absolutely no idea what was in it.  Probably best not to ask!  At midnight, everybody did the rounds of kisses and "Feliz Navidad"s and Secret Santa (amigo invisible) presents were distributed amongst all the guests.  My present was from Gloria and it is a lovely traditional wool hat from Salta.  Exactly the same as Mum and Dad's chulio hats but without the earflaps.  Perfect for the cold down South later on!  My gifts to others mainly included typical English souvenirs from Cambridge (a tea set and some calendars with pretty pictures of punting).

More food and drink later, we headed to bed at about 3am, and at around midday on Christmas Day, Maggie and I headed over to her friends' asado (major meat feast cooked for an hour or so on a big grill).  I loved these people - so lively and quirky.  When we arrived, they had Queen blasting from the speakers - I felt right at home! We did another Secret Santa and this time I got a mini condiment set.  We basically ate the whole afternoon and finished it off with chocolate and mate (traditional bitter tea drunk from a gourd through the metal straw/strainer).  After a quick siesta and some blog-updating, Maggie and I went out around 11pm to meet her friend Paula for some food.  Basically, a succession of delicious heavy food from sunrise to sun fall.  I feel like a stuffed turkey!

A quick heads-up on where I'm going next:

Bus to Salta on Tues 29 Dec arriving back in BA on Tues 5th Jan --- Bus to Bariloche on 6th Jan, stay for a few days and meet with an old Uni friend (recently discovered coincidence!) -- Further south to El Calafate to visit the National Park of Glaciers which will include the famous Perito Moreno glaciar -- Even further south to Ushuaia by 19th January, from which point I will be embarking on the Vavilov ice-breaker ship for the tour to the Antarctic peninsula until 9th February. 

After that, I'm likely to stay a fair while in the Patagonian region for some long trekking, then will head up through Chile to Santiago, at which point I'll cross over to Mendoza in Argentina since I will have missed it on the way south, and I will hopefully see Antoine (french guy I met in Iguazú) and his girlfriend for some cross-country horse-riding.  Back up through Chile to Jujuy (again in Argentina) and hopefully to the salt plains of Uyuni, then will explore a little in Bolivia and cross over into Peru where I'll be meeting my French flat-mate Pauline to finish the trip with a visit to Macchu Picchu.